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In 1958, Onslow‑Ford leased his side
of the ferry to David Cole for an art gallery,
which remained on board for about three
years, "a beautiful gallery, memorable
paintings were shown there, things museums
are just now catching up with." Then,
in 1961, he leased his two‑thirds
of the ferry to Alan Watts. philosopher,
writer, guru and founder of the Society
for Comparative Philosophy, a forerunner
of the humanistic movement which would sweep
the '60's the consciousness raising decade.
"He bridged the gap between Eastern
and Western philosophies," said Onslow‑Ford.
"I sat at his feet and learned about
Buddhism. He was a great scholar, and he
had a big influence on young people. Basically
‑he gave them permission to do their
own thing." Eventually Onslow‑Ford
would transfer his ownership in the ferry
to Watts with whom he had been friends for
many years.
Watts
and his wife Jano moved on board and their
side of the ferry became the antithesis
of the chaotic and colorful decor at the
other end; white walls, an altar and a bronze
Buddha, Oriental rugs on the split levels
where cars had once rolled on board, and
open spaces for seminars. "Varda's
side was all color and everything going
on:' said Jano, "while ours was pristine
‑ a simplicity ‑ but it wasn't
a temple or anything, there was no solemnity
and hush‑hush. It was a joyful place."

And there Watts wrote
books, and held seminars and introduced
ideas new at the time ‑ human potential,
sensory awareness, mysticism. He held séances
and explored the occult, hosted philosophers,
writers and the foremost thinkers of the
time. Yet, Watts was not solemn or awesome
‑"He brought joy and play into
religion:' said Marion.
The
philosopher with the deceptively severe
manner became fast friends with the seemingly
opposite rambunctious and spontaneous Varda.
They sawed a door between the two sides
to assure an easy flow of communication,
people and ideas. Watts, also a gourmet
cook, became co‑host at Varda's already
famous lunches. And thus life went along
on board Vallejo
for nearly another decade. The ferryboat,
always a gathering place, became a center
for religious exploration, the austere and
the rollicking having neatly merged.
With
all this going on, who had time to maintain
an old ferry? The exterior paint peeled.
One of the young men living aboard made
an attempt to paint it. "Fine,"
said Varda. "Let him paint it. He will
soon find out how big she is:" And
so he did, and soon it was the end of the
painting project. The axles of the paddlewheels
began to sag, and the yellow stack gave
way to rust. Tiltings from the additions
became more prominent. "Yet, if she
was in rags:' said Onslow‑Ford, "they
were magnificent rags." Pennants flew
from the gangways, and the bright Cythera
sailed every Sunday, Varda in elegant
attire, surrounded with women and wine.
Jano installed a garden and patio on the
front deck. It was not until later that
grass would grow between the deck planks
and .weeds would creep along the house sides,
and pigeons would roost in the axles of
the old paddlewheels.
But.
time goes on, time which changes everything,
and all too soon the moving forces of the
unique lifestyle on board Vallejo were gone.
In 1971, at age 77, Jean Varda died unexpectedly
of a heart attack in Mexico City. With sorrow,
his many friends scattered his ashes over
San Francisco Bay from his beloved Cythera. Soon after, Marion moved into the quarters that had been
Varda's. "An inner music said I should
come here," said Marion. "I felt
this was here I should be. I saw more to
Varda than all that partying ‑ I'm
interested in what makes people able to
achieve living in a highly creative way."
And
two years later, in 1973, Watts also' died
unexpectedly. It's been said that the mystic
simply went on an astral trip and never
came back, and many feel that his spirit
still resides on board Vallejo.
Watts had transfered his ownership of
the ferry to the Society for Comparative
Philosophy, and for the next few years the
Society held seminars and meetings on board.
In 1981, Marion, who then had lived aboard
for ten years, made arrangements with the
Society to purchase Vallejo.
And
what of the ferryboat's future? Marion explains
in her own way; "Ownership of this
boat with its great historic and spiritual
meaning to so many is something I see as
a guardianship. The spirit the boat has
engendered cannot be bought or sold and
should belong to the community. I hope she
will continue to be the home of remarkable
people and ideas, and I wish her to serve
the creative and artistic needs of Sausalito
and the Bay Area." And what of the
monumental restoration job that faces Marion
and the friends of the Vallejo? "We Vill accomplish the restoration of the Vallejo, not to her original days as a
ferryboat, but as a center for creating,
coming together and remembering that part
of ourselves that is joyous. We want her
to look beautiful again ‑ and we want
her to enjoy a hundred more years of joy
and service to the community."

This
then, is the optimistic outlook of the ferryboat's
new "guardian." Will the gangway
be restored, the pennants fly again, the
smokestack shine a proud yellow, the rust
and weathered wood be vanquished? It will
take more resources than those available
to Marion standing alone. Let us hope that
an infusion of new energy, the enthusiasm
of the community, and help from the "playful
gods, the ones that hang around here"
will be enough to keep alive this, the oldest
of the ferries in Sausalito, the venerable
ferryboat Vallejo.
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