Vallejo Chapter Pt 2
The Old Ferryboats Of Sausalito

By Annie Sutter
 


The Bill of Sale. dated 1923, transfers ownership of the A Vallejo to Robert Rauhauge of the Mare Island Line His son recalls,  "oh, 1 grew up on that boat. The Old. Mar, came from Denmark in the early 1900s and he bought Vallejo  in 1923. I was skipper from 1935 until we took her out of service in 1948. We carried 1500 passengers per run, 2000 if we really squeezed  em'. Fare was 5 cents. There were guys who'd try to beat the fare by climbing out on the apron and dropping into the rear deck as She pulled out. When the Old Man got wind of his he'd put on the coals and they'd drop into the water." Rauhauge chuckles and points to the wheel which decorates the wall Of the restaurant. "That's one of the two wheels. Took two men and a boy to turn 'em. There was this Swede, he had a salvage boat and he'd go right out in the middle of the channel and block the way. Oh, the Old Man used to get so mad, he’d shake his fist and call him an old Swedish SOB ‑ and then afterwards you'd see them sharing a bottle. It was just a big show."

When the war ended. the carrying of workers to Mare Island ended, and the ferries were taken out of service. Vallejo was the last to be retired.  In 1947 she was sold for scrap to the Gardiner Steel Mills of Oakland, and delivered to the Arques yard in Sausalito to be broken up.

About the same time, a trio of resources and unique artist had  joined forces and were searching for a studio large enough to accommodate their varying work habits and lifestyles. They were Gordon Onslow‑Ford, an Englishman and artist of established reputation; Jean Varda artist and bon vivant who had spent his years between Greece, Paris, London, New York and Big Sur, somewhat in that order; and Forest Wright, architect. It was Varda who discovered the ferryboat at the Arques yard down in Marinship, the shipyard from World War 11. Onslow‑Ford recalls negotiations on the day the three determined to buy the ferry. “We  hurried over to the Gardiner office in Oakland and arrived rather disheveled and announced that we wanted to buy the ferry. They asked how much money we had Forest had none. Varda had none. I had ‑$500. So they look that as a down payment. and we. agreed to pay $60 a month:” Soon Forest Wright would  move on. leaving his one‑third to Onslow-Ford.


 

They towed the ferry to a small parcel of Marinship, with little near it but marsh grass and birds. They divided the space and built a gangway to the outer end. scavenged available materials, built and changed. "It was a major job to remodel that boat." recalls Onslow‑Ford, "and we did it all ourselves. Marinship was full of treasures then, ‑ like cables, 2 x 4's, ice boxes ‑things you'd need. And there was a waterfront tradition ‑ no one paid their bills. Varda was the instigator of that custom." They recycled engine parts and used steam pipes for chimney flues and kitchen equipment, tore wood from the paddlewheels for additions and partitions, and painted the smokestack a bright yellow. Soon the ferry began to take on a shape unferrylike, particularly at Varda's end. He enclosed the open stern and built out on it ‑ a bulging addition that caused a tilting to begin. Windows were cut out where the paddlewheels had been, and pigeons took up residence on the hubs. Walls were built across the passenger deck, fireplaces and flues sprang up and the ferry became a sprawling, anarchistic, comfortable space for living and creating.

"There are happy ships and unhappy ships." said Onslow‑Ford, "and Vallejo was a happy ship even though there were vastly different people on board. Varda's main interest was people and entertaining, mine was painting. Yet I was best of friends with Yanko. I did some major work on that ferry ‑ it was a place where artists blossomed, flowered. Varda set the tone."

Varda ‑‑ the joyful, vibrant, creative colorful nicknamed Yanko. Those who knew and loved him are many. They remember him as being magic. They remember color - ''he wore one green shoe and one yellow shoe "He rode around in a purple car wearing a flaming pink sweat­ shirt." He created bright collages with bits and pieces of wood, paper, fabric and foil recycled into celestial cities or clowns or women or horses on parade. He suspended colored bottles in the windows to catch the light and built bits of colored glass into the fireplace. Suns decorated the sides of the ferry, and pennants flew from the gangway.

He built a sailboat from an old lifeboat hull and named her Cythera and painted eyes on the hull and sewed an orange and yellow ‑tin on the lateen sail.

Maybe it was the eyes, Greek style, which kept him safe on his legendary voyages on board Cythera, but people remember that it A‑as Varda who was magic. "He was a Greek sailor from ancient times ... a lucky person...wherever he went, there were adventures. He was quite fearless and would put to sea in storms with his cargo of beauties and they never came to harm ... ... to the astonishment of proper yachtsmen, he could whistle the wind."

People remember his love of life and of women. "He had a great sense of how to live ... most writers missed the point of why people wanted to be around him. I don't like to see him described as a quaint, lecherous, charming old Bohemian. I have seen unattractive women blossom under Varda somehow he could see the ideal person and make the person believe it."

People remember the elaborate lunches served on board Vallejo. "His taste was impeccable and he was a great cook. He sat at the head of the table telling parables using the guests as subjects, and what he said made them rethink their own lives." "He had an incredible vocabulary ‑ used words you ought to hear, and never hear:' His art did not inspire admiration in all eyes however ‑ one critic felt that "his greatest success as an artist was when he painted his car purple."

People gathered at the long table to feast, to share ideas and drink wine. Varda sat in a large straw chair, white hair framed by its high curved back, surrounded with friends. Tenants moved into the pilot houses and lean‑tos sprung tip on the upper deck to house more tenants. Kids climbed on the decks with ropes and swung down into Varda's galley on a trapeze. Mornings were for painting, and both artists rose early and worked industriously. And things went along happily on board Vallejo for a decade ‑Onslow‑Ford painting, Varda hammering and snipping and pasting his collages, partying and sailing: Vallejo the center of the art community and a freedom of lifestyle that were all too soon to vanish.


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SS Vallejo 36 Varda Landing Sausalito, CA 94965 info@vallejo.to