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Vallejo
Chapter Pt 1
The Old Ferryboats Of Sausalito
By
Annie Sutter |
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At low tide, the ferryboat Vallejo rests in the
mud near Waldo Point. At high tide, the 100 year
old hull rises with the water and lifts its cumbersome
load of peeling wood, weatherbeaten decks, pilot
houses. smokestacks and chimney caps. New walls.
new windows, an extension here, a platform there
‑ the anarchist additions accumulated over
the years have changed her lines so that she can
no longer truly be called a ferryboat. More like
a comfortable and sprawling place for living, creating
and gathering together that grew, like the old woman's
shoe, as the years went on. And as the years went
on, time and attrition went on, weathering. battering
rusting, decaying. Yet, the superstructure is still
in tact, the Swedish iron hull still floats, the
living spaces are comfortable, and the benign spirits
of past tenants are said to reside on board. |
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At low tide, the ferryboat Vallejo rests in the
mud near Waldo Point. At high tide, the 100 year
old hull rises with the water and lifts its cumbersome
load of peeling wood, weatherbeaten decks, pilot
houses. smokestacks and chimney caps. New walls.
new windows, an extension here, a platform there
‑ the anarchist additions accumulated over
the years have changed her lines so that she can
no longer truly be called a ferryboat. More like
a comfortable and sprawling place for living,
creating and gathering together that grew, like
the old woman's shoe, as the years went on. And
as the years went on, time and attrition went
on, weathering. battering rusting, decaying. Yet,
the superstructure is still in tact, the Swedish
iron hull still floats, the living spaces are
comfortable, and the benign spirits of past tenants
are said to reside on board.
A new lease on life is in the air for Vallejo,
from new owner Marion Saltman; a gentle, delicate
yet determined romantic whose major resources
are her dreams and her conviction that Vallejo
must be saved from the wreckers and restored.
Although Marion has lived on board since 1971
it was not until 1981 that she became the owner
of the old ferry, although she prefers to be considered
a "guardian." There are those who estimate
that the restoration would take over a million
dollars. There are those ‑who believe it
could be accomplished for $300.000. Marion simply
believes in doing one thing at a time. "We'll
paint the smokestack yellow again, and fly new
pennants, fix the gangway and bring back artists
and shows and seminars ... and we'll sit at the long table and
talk about what we can do...one thing at a time."
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Marian Saltman, Vallejo's
"guardian."
Merne Sigler photo. |
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Those whose lives were touched by the old ferry
are many. They were different from one another,
yet part of a center that drew artists, philosophers,
poets, mystics, writers, bon vivants and dreamers,
to Vallejo "It's like the Orient Express,"
says Marion. "I mean, this boat is a mighty
thing ‑ it has a magnetic attraction, and
people who had experiences on the boat suddenly
light up, and remember... I had a great experience
here ...
a tea ceremony with the fog swirling all around
... morning,
with marsh birds, strutting at the grassy edges
of the bay. A little girl, now a woman, remembered
playing hide and seek under the seats on the way
to Mare Island ...
.a gruff old sea captain visited his old pilot
house to reminisce. Think of the millions of passengers
who rode over the years ‑ part of the magic
of a ferry is the accumulation of all the souls
that stepped on board. Remember Varda and his
art and his parties and his love of life ...
and explorations into mysticism and the humanist
movement... people came here from all over. The
gathering place for the waterfront community of
the 50's and 60's ‑ that was the Vallejo.
As the years went on, and the artists and writers
and dreamers moved on to other places, the slow
disintegration of the old ferry went on, a common
phenomenon aptly paraphrased by Varda, "boats
are always 'Irving to commit suicide."
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a centenarian can be expected to be in need of some
care and restoration as 100 or more years grind
on. There are two stories about Vallejo 's origins.
She may have been built in Portland, Oregon in 1879,
commissioned by San Francisco Bay's Rodeo/Vallejo
line. Research proves that iron hulls were being
built in Portland in the 1870's. However, there's another story told by the
son of an early owner of Vallejo,
Victor Rauhauge, who can be found today at his
restaurant on the Vallejo wharf where the ferries
once landed. "Oh, I don't remember just how
I know," he said, "but it was common knowledge
that Vallejo was built in the East in 1871 and came
around the Horn under her own power. Old sailors
who passed through Vallejo in the 30's told of seeing
her sister ship at work in Virginia. Here, look
at the Bill of Sale ‑ it says a wooden vessel
built in Portland in 1879. Well. the hull is iron.
What they did was build a wooden house on an existing
iron hull ‑ and that's why you have two dates
of origin.” |
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