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The
Sunday Oregonian
NORTHWEST ROTO MAGAZINE, August 22,1954
Pages from our past (pages 8-9)
by Lawrence Barber, Marine
Editor, The Oregonian |
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| LAST
STOP for Ferry No. 2 |
End
of the run for
Ferry No. 2,
later the Vallejo,
is a berth in
an arm of the
San Francisco Bay.
Artists residence
added windows. |
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| SAILING
INTO an arm of San Francisco bay just north
of Sausalito and the Golden Gate bridge a
few years ago, a Greek born artist and two
friends spotted an ancient, worn out ferryboat,
the Vallejo, tied to the shore.
The
old hull was "impressive," the
artist, Jean Varda, wrote recently. He did
not know at the time that it was part of
Portland's most colorful past.
"We
immediately accosted her," he wrote,
"and were roaming about and inspecting
her when a voice full of suspicion called
from the shore.
"'Hey,
you guys, what are you doing there?' it
said.
"There
was only one way out of an embarrassing
situation. We answered: 'Is this boat for
sale?'
"When
we learned that she was, we looked at each
other struck by the same idea. What a magnificent
studio it would make!
"Two
days later we were wedlocked to her for
good or for worse."
So
now the 74 year old Vallejo is a part of
San Francisco bay's Bohemian colony, the
home of two artists who have made themselves
comfortable by fitting up quarters in cabins
which for many years carried travelers and
shipyard workers.
Ferry
Assembled in East Portland
The Vallejo harkens back to Portland's exciting
days of the railroad builders, Ben Holladay
and Henry Villard, for she was put together
in 1879 on the east bank of the Willamette
river in what then was known as East Portland.
She became a vital link in the railroad
connections between the growing city and
the Willamette valley before there were
any bridges in Portland.
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Ferry
was part of the empire built by Ben
Holladay, one of Oregon's first railroad
Barons. |
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Launched
as the O&CRR Ferry No. 2, she was operated
for nearly ten years across the harbor between
the Oregon & California R. R. terminal
on the east bank, just south of the end
of the present Steel bridge, and the west
bank at the foot of F street, now N. W.
Flanders street.
At
the time the ferry was built, Henry Villard
was in control of the O&CRR and most
of the other railroads of Oregon. He succeeded
Ben Holladay, who rose to fame about ten
years earlier, and began the state's first
extensive railroad development. Holladay
had built a smaller ferry in 1870 for the
cross river link in his system, and the
new one replaced the original vessel.
Hull
Built of Swedish Iron
The hull of Ferry No. 2 was said to have
been made of Swedish wrought iron, prefabricated
in Philadelphia and brought around Cape
Horn by ship to be assembled in East Portland.
The vessel was 123 feet long, 31 feet wide
and 10 feet deep, with steam driven side
wheels and boilers that burned cordwood.
As
units in his railroad ferry system, Holladay
erected waiting stations on both banks of
the river. On the hill overlooking the east
side terminal was his three story hotel,
Holladay House, torn down three years ago
to make way for new approaches to the Steel
bridge.
The
west side waiting station was a small, threesided,
two story frame building at the foot of
F street, also removed to make way for bridge
approaches. It was known years ago as the
Boss saloon and more recently as Boss lunch.
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Westside
waiting room
for O. & C. ferry became
notorious saloon,
and then lunch room,
as in 20-year-old photo
showing Author
Stewart Holbrook (right)
and the late Spider Johnson. |
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The
enterprising Holladay established Portland's
first horse car line to connect the ferry
at Front and F streets with downtown Portland.
It was a muledrawn car, worn out from long
usage in San Francisco before Holladay brought
it to Portland, and it was pulled over iron
rails from the turntable at Front and G
streets down through town to Carruthers
street, in South Portland, where another
turntable was located.
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Horse
cars on line established
by Ben Holladay connected his
ferry landing at present foot of
Flaunders with downtown area. |
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The
three sided waiting station became notorious
as a saloon and sailors' hiring hall, with
offices upstairs. It was said that Jim Turk
and Mysterious Billy Smith used it as a base,
or "crimp joint," for shanghaiing
sailors for the grain ships that loaded at
nearby wharves.
Old
timers, in fact, still repeat stories that
Smith's son or Turk's son, or both, were
among the men who mysteriously disappeared
from the place in the dead of night and
later found themselves recovering from knock
out drops on ships at sea.
This
building was said to be the birthplace of
the Portland Merchants Exchange. It had
its inception when a bartender, tired of
answering questions, put up a blackboard
behind his bar to list incoming ships and
their berths for the information of sailors
and waterfront gentry.
The
exchange was organized and incorporated
in 1879, the same year the O&CRR Ferry
No. 2 was launched, and moved "uptown"
to First and Ankeny streets.
Near
at hand was the Alaska dock, the heart of
Portland shipping, and down river were most
of the grain docks. Square riggers by the
score anchored in the harbor to await their
turns at loading berths.
Dock
Received Hops From Valley
Across the harbor, on the east bank, was
the old hop dock, located just south of
the present Steel bridge. It was a part
of the O&CRR system, erected to receive
hops by river boat and railroad from the
Willamette valley, and to serve as a storage
and shipping point.
The
Portland days of the O&CRR Ferry No.
2 were numbered, however. People were tiring
of having to cross the river by ferry between
the city and the countryside of East Portland,
and enterprising citizens finally built
the first Morrison street bridge of timbers
in 1887.
Then
the owners of the Union Pacific railroad,
who also then controlled the Oregon &
California railroad, built the first Steel
bridge, at a location just downstream from
the present site, in 1888. It had two decks,
one for trains and one for wagons and pedestrians
as does the present one, built in 1912.
The
ferry was tied up alongside the hop dock
for several years. Finally, it disappeared
down the river on the end of a tow line,
bound for San Francisco bay.
Boat
Named Vallejo, Converted to Oil
It went into service under the new name
Vallejo between Vallejo and Mare island
for the Association of Mare Island Employes
and remained there approximately half a
century. The new owners converted it from
a wood burner to coal and later, in 1910,
from coal to oil.
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| In
her World War I prime,Vallejo Shuttled
many thousands of workers from Vallejo
toMare Island navel shipyard in San
Francisco Bay, California. |
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During
World Wars I and II, the Vallejo carried
many thousands of workmen and visitors to
the naval shipyard. During her later days
she ran only during the changes of shifts.
When
Jean Varda and Gordon Onslow Ford acquired
her, they made some alterations, closing
up some of the original windows and cutting
in new ones to fit inside arrangements better.
Large view windows have been installed behind
the timbers that supported the side wheels.
Varda
has built a stone and concrete fireplace,
inlaid with glass bottles, in one corner
of his living room, and he has a bar made
out of scraps and relies which he has collected
along the waterfront.
Varda's
studio is in the lower deck, where the old
steam engine and boiler are still located.
"The
engine is still in the hull except for certain
parts that were ripped apart by a very schizophrenic
young architect," he wrote. "He
intended to build some very crazy furniture
with all the old copper and brass tubes,
small and large. Ultimately, he did nothing
of the kind, and the whole venture proved
to be a case of wanton vandalism."
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Jean
Varda stands before stone and cement
fireplace he built himself
for his ferryboat residence. It is inlaid
with bottles. |
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